Three days of men’s clothing fashion shows can be a blur, but certain things do stay with you. After the London Collections: Men Spring/Summer 2014, here are some of the looks and shows that made their mark:
In the shows, I noticed a certain relaxed, less buttoned-up approach to menswear. This was evidenced by the popularity of denim, both in jeans and jean jackets.
Although rarely seen in its natural state, denim was present in most of the collections. Audiences saw it patch-worked and raw-edged at Marques’ Almeida, and splattered with bleach at Oliver Spencer.
The iconic jean-jacket was also prevalent in the collections. Models wore it in its original denim form or redefined by designers, such as Kit Neale and Lou Dalton. Neale incorporated digital prints, while Dalton presented versions in solid colours, like lilac.
Another noticeable theme was the distressed or treated fabrics. From Lou Dalton’s mottled, crumpled fabrics to Matthew Miller’s pristine, super-minimalist coated pieces, fabrics were battered, tie-dyed, treated, and mistreated.
From the bare-chested models with slogans stencilled over their skins, Matthew Miller’s collection proved to be another brilliant one. It included super-minimalist pieces in solid whites, blacks, and greys. It also featured coated fabrics that suggested the tactile pleasure of painted surfaces. Filled with the same infectious,rebellious drive and love of wording as embellishment, Miller’s work is reminiscent of John Richmond’s in his prime.
Meadham Kirchoff’s haunting presentation began with two films. The motion pictures showed archive black-and-white images of wartime Europe, with surging masses, bombed cities, and flag-waving processions. When the models appeared, the collection further tested the boundaries of private and public. Models removed and passed garments between them like an elaborate ritual. Elements incorporated into the story included transparent rainwear, stripes, gingham check, and white shorts.
With this collection, the designers once again played with the accepted boundaries between women and men’s fashion clothes. It showed their uncanny ability to settle and provoke.
The curtain has fallen on the London Collections: Men Spring/Summer 2014, but the looks and shows remain. With that said, here’s to looking forward to the next London Collections.